Vintage Van Raalte Singlette Lingerie Ad

A print ad from 1928 -- I wish there was a larger scan so we could really see those dainties!

Comical (But Familiar) Vintage Lingerie Complaints (History Of The Padded Girdle)

In The Coshocton Tribune, July 1, 1958, an unhappy response to Frederick's padded girdle creation...

Writer Is Aghast At Latest "Form Deception" Example, by Doc Quigg

Every femme is entitled to pine for a form fatal, but the latest strange device for magnifying the womanly shape is, honestly, just too much.

It was Henry Wadsworth Longfellow who remarked poetically that "things are not what they seem." He can say that again. Female fashion is becoming a well-rounded falsehood.

Things are getting so bad that you can't look at a lady without wondering whether she is throwing you a foam-rubber curve. What blasted off these remarks was a package waiting for me on my desk when I returned from vacation. It contained the aforementioned strange device.

With it was a notation that this might be something worth writing about. Well, sure it is. Also worth philosophizing about.

What the thing seems to be is a modern, built-in bustle, worn at foundation level. The note with it described it as "the panty girdle with derriere pads." It has two beautifully rounded, tapered, inch-thick foam-rubber pads sewn into the seat.

To a man looking at this monstrosity, the idea occurs that it is a magnificent triumph of functional contradiction. What is a girdle for? To shrink what it is girdling, that's what. Now here is an elasticized panty girdle, admirably built to squeeze the area it covers, but contradicting itself by padding out part of what it is trying to belittle.

And speaking of contradictions, here we have millions of women on strict diets, trying to slough off pounds in obvious places. And along comes this Frederick's of Hollywood with his padded panties to simulate the lost poundage.

Subject For Interviews

Becoming interested in the new development, a local newspaper, the Daily News, devoted its inquiring - photographer column to interviews on the question: "What is your opinion of a girl who resorts to false padding in the rear?"

The first answer, from a lady named Anne Viviani Frisbie, was: "Since I've always been ample in that department, I'm enthralled at the idea that there are girls who actually resort to this subterfuge. Feminine figures are becoming more mysterious with the new fashions. How do you men tell fact from fiction these days?"

There is the temptation to say that any girl who wears one of the new things should be turned over the knee for a good spanking. But what good would that do? With an inch of rubber padding, she wouldn't even feed it. Probably the only thing we males can do is retaliate -- let's bring back the zoot suit with the brawny -- but false -- shoulders.

It's Worth Seeing Red When It's Vintage Panties

The first pair of red vintage panties are by Blue Swan Lingerie. They are full cut brief style, with chiffon backed lace inserts around the leg openings and a double nylon gusset.

The second pair features plenty of ruffles and rhinestones!

Janey Frawley In Sheer Nightgown

Janey Frawley wearing a sheer pleated nightgown on the front of vintage men's mag Adam -- boasting of the 1965 calender.

When "Skort" Means Skirt With Knickers

A vintage miniskirt length half-slip with built in panties by Gossard Artemis, complete with mod orange trim along the scalloped edges.

Vintage OMG Lingerie Of The Week: Sheer Black Panty Edition

Sheer black nylon full-cut panties are fab enough -- and with ruffled leg openings, a thrill too. But when those very same vintage panties are adorned with rhinestones, jet beads and satin bits in an art deco design, well, my oh my!

Lingerie & Fashion Link Round-Up

What I've been reading... And what I think about it.

Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant's put out a book, The Fashion File: In this bit of promo coverage at The Wall Street Journal, I don't see anything you can find here or at Jaynie's Here's Looking Like You, Kid.

This time I take Icky Vicky's side: People at a shopping mall complain kids can see lingerie ads at play area. So, let's get this straight... Walking with kids past the ads is fine, but playing near them is traumatic? And how bad must the play area be that kids don't play, they stare at ads?

European women's wear retailer Aurora Fashions has said it plans to offer 90 minute online delivery for the majority of its consumers by February next year. Sounds like good news for those in the UK who have immediate fashion needs.

Agent Provocateur launches their Home Collection: Here's what I think.

Pampered Passions has partnered with HIOWAA in the UK to assist with National Bag a Bra Day, May 26th each year. Pampered Passions is the drop-off point for gently worn bras from donors which are then shipped over to the UK for delivery to West Africa. Their goal is to gather over 10,000 bras before April 31st, 2012, to be delivered to HIOWAA in May 2012. I think that's nice and all; but there are plenty of women in the United States, the UK, wherever you live, that are in need as well. So, ladies, don't forget to donate your bras locally. Even if turning them into a local thrift store where millions in need shop every day.

Armani partners with Rihanna for a sexy ad campaign photographed by Steven Klein. "The concept was based on a classic film noir, giving it a contemporary twist - sexy, yet sophisticated." Rihanna, wearing a cropped blonde wig, poses seductively in and outside of a classic car. Like Jay Leno, I say few things say "Luxury" as well as a classic car. *wink*

Image via.

Wholly Matrimony!

This vintage white bias cut rayon Godfried nightgown features a sheer -- sexy but ladylike -- mesh inset at the bust. A blue satin ribbon under the bust adds a splash of soft color.  Lots of lace too. You needn't be a bride to take pride wearing this!

The Best Daily Maidenform Bras

When I first started my own bra shopping, the first brand name I went to was Maidenform. I'm not sure why; perhaps it was the ads. *wink* But the bras didn't let me down then -- and they continue to hold me up now, even though I'm larger and *ahem* more in need of support.

Since we're talking support, here are a few of my favorite Maidenform bras for everyday...

* Maidenform® One Fabulous Fit® Tailored Demi Bra: Support where you need it, smooth so there's no lines beneath T-shirts and other fitted (and sheer) tops, and a plunging neckline for V-necks and other low-cut fashions.

* Maidenform® Custom Lift® Tailored T-Shirt Bra: Each cup size in the Custom Lift line is designed with its own unique lift feature to custom fit your bra size. These bras also are smooth looking under tees and fitting tops and have a plunging neckline -- plus they have a satiny finish.

Both of these bras come in practical basic colors (white, black, beige) as well as fashion colors and prints. But the best part is that they offer great fit, lift and support -- of your breasts, fashion sense, and wardrobe. Having a few of them, in the practical colors especially, and your hectic mornings are made easier because you won't waste time rushing about trying to find a bra that works with your outfit.  Ditto ease in travel when you pack a pair of these in your suitcase.

Both of these Maidenform bras are in an affordable price range ($35 or less -- and on sale at Maidenform now!) and are available in sizes up to 38 DD.

1942 Spiegel Catalog Lingerie & Stockings Pages

Vintage lingerie pages from a 1942 Spiegel Catalog.

Ethical Lingerie Shopping: My Exclusive Interview With Chloé Jo Davis

Chloé Jo Davis is the girlie girl behind The Girlie Girl Army, The Glamazon Guide to Green Living:

[A] call to arms for badass baby divas and head turning cougars, who want to save the planet from hacky sack and doom at the same time. Newbies, vegan vixens, the Mom next door, sexy emo boys, and anyone who wants to do their part without sacrificing their facials will heart our weekly newsletter and daily blog that give you tips on fashion, food, and fun in the greenest way possible! "Sex in the City," with brains and a pitbull.

I don't want to age either of us, but for well over a decade I've been following her, subscribed to her newsletter, hanging on her every find -- and even though I'm not a vegan or profess to be the "greenest" person on the planet, there's always a great tip (shopping or health wise), animals to rescue (what bombshell doesn't rescue animals?!), a hella lot of moxy (and humor!), and something to learn. So I asked the incredibly busy Chloé Jo to enlighten us about ethical lingerie shopping...

I know you are a devoted ethical shopper! What are you main concerns when shopping for lingerie? Does vintage fit into your ethical fashion sense?

I am, first and foremost, animal caring, and that resonates first. So silk lingerie and wool based underclothes are out. But lace, organics, synthetics, etc. all are in.

All of my slips and robes are vintage. It's amazing what you can find in thrift stores for a few dollars, that, with some good hair & make up, can turn into the ultimate mating call! Back in the day when I was a rock n roller living in the east village, all my girlfriends and I were broke and thrift shopping was the only way we'd go. I still to this day wear some of those same slips and nightgowns.

PS Shouldn't we totally bring back the word "nightgown"?! It's the ultimate in drag!

Some of us have always used the word "nightgown" -- it's always remained in fashion with us!

Chloe, most of us know what vegan is in terms of eating, but what does "vegan" mean when it comes to lingerie shopping?

It means avoiding anything that was made using animals or animal biproducts.

People may not think silk is a big deal, but boiling thousands and thousands of earthworms alive so I can have a pair of panties is just absurd. I'm fine with bamboo, which are softer, more durable, and microbial (which means the natural sweat wicking properties.) There are countless luxe fabrics made from all natural fibers that are ethically sound to choose from.

The point is to buy pieces that you'll never want to toss or wear out or mistreat in your cleaning, so that less ends up in landfills. When I outgrow or tire of a bra or spanx, I pass them on to a friend during one of my clothing swaps. (Every 6 months my girls and I get together and swap whatever we don't want for something we do.)

What are your top five favorite lingerie brands/labels/designers?

Prior to baby, I loved Agent Provocateur and Wolford tights; I tend to be more utilitarian these days having just had a baby, and being a nursing Mother of a 17 month old son.

But I love that my friends at Bravado are making such sexy nursing bras now. When you are nursing, wearing underwire bras give you clogged milk ducts, so you stick to soft cup that offers support.

Elle Macpherson also has some divine nursing bras, though they aren't nearly on the same comfort level as the Bravado bras.

 Clare Bare (also at Etsy) has the sweetest organic cotton and dead stock fabric lingerie that she hand makes. I really love her aesthetic. (Organic Bamboo Jersey Bandeau and Organic Bamboo Jersey Garter Hot Short shown at left.)

I also like Under The Root for basics with a bit of something extra... Their entire process utilizes sustainable, reclaimed, and vintage materials.

The organic period panties from LunaPads are a dream for afterbirth and that time of the month; they are like super comfy panties with a built in really soft pad. I swear by these, and hope women stop being so afraid to see their blood.

I live for the organic Blue Canoe sleep bras (for us bigger boobed gals) and yoga wear too.

I was born in England and still love the Marks & Spencer's basic panties and undershirts. You can't beat the quality, they somehow last forever!

It should be noted that you can get discount on many of Chloe's recommended lines by using the codes on the Girlie Girl Army cheapskates page. And subscribe to her newsletter for more discounts, sales and finds!

Important Note: The photo of Chloé Jo Davis in red Agent Provocateur lingerie, is pre-baby; she wanted all of you to know that.  Discussion of that fact lead to an incredibly brilliant conversation, which will be appearing here at A Slip Of A Girl soon -- so please come back and check it out!

Hello, Autumn!

A sexy vintage babydoll nightgown and matching panties by Ess-Gee Undergarments in 100% burnt orange acetate with bewitching black lace. Nothing to say "Boo!" at for the upcoming holiday (Halloween, that is -- or whatever thrilling holiday you have lol). And a great reminder to learn about babydolls as well as take my Ultimate Panty Survey. *wink*

Goodbye, Summer

The first day of Fall was technically last Friday, but I didn't feel the need to bid adieu to Summer until I saw these photos of Poppy Montgomery on the beach in a slip at Frankufotos Lingerie...

Babydoll Nighties: A Vintage Lingerie Lesson & A Mini Film Review

The birth of the babydoll nightie was ushered in with the controversial 1956 film Baby Doll. Baby Doll was based on two of Tennessee Williams' one-act plays, Twenty-seven Wagons Full of Cotton and The Unsatisfactory Supper. Directed by Elia Kazan, the film stars Karl Malden, Eli Wallach, and Carroll Baker -- as the 19-year old virgin-yet-married titular "Baby Doll."

Now considered a "cult film," Baby Doll was nominated for many awards -- including four Oscars. However, it wasn't until very recently that this film was available for viewing, let alone purchase (the DVD was released in 2006). That said, Baby Doll is a difficult film to watch.

Baby Doll, a 19 year old woman, gets her name from her babyish behavior. Presumably from a doting father who let her marry Archie (Malden) under the condition that the marriage not be consummated until Baby Doll turns 20. Archie impatiently waits while his bride sleeps in her own room -- in a crib, wearing childish ill-fitting short nightgowns and sucking her thumb yet!

When Archie spies on her through a hole in her bedroom wall of their crumbling house, your skin just crawls...

When Baby Doll address her husband with icy cruel disdain, and you discover the consummation rule and the power of her iron fist-ed rule (ten times worse that your stereotypical Southern iron hand in a velvet glove), your skin crawls in reverse.

For a million reasons, including the sexualized infantilism of women, this film is hard to watch. But it's worth it, because your tension is worth exploring. And the characters certainly live on and on, years after you see the film.

Tennessee Williams's first choice for the title role of Baby Doll was Marilyn Monroe; Elia Kazan preferred newcomer Carroll Baker. It's not difficult to wish to have seen Marilyn in the role... Her obviously female form barely hidden in such sheer shortie nighties aside, you know Marilyn would have given Baby Doll Meighan some sort of vulnerability, if not likeability -- something Baker's Baby Doll really lacks. But then perhaps we'd have a whole different film; one not intended by Williams or Kazan. Maybe I just adore Karl Malden too much, but I wouldn't have minded a different film... Or maybe not. It's powerful as it is. (And I can kiss Malden's Archie's sorrows away in my dreams.)

Anyway, it's Carroll Baker's Baby Doll which spawned this specific kind of short nightgown -- selling a reported twenty-five million babydoll nighties and inspiring those of today. (Also worth noting: according to the Kinsey Report, Baker's thumb-sucking "caused the number of devotees of the act of fellatio to soar to 65%.")

I say that Baker's Baby Doll has "inspired" today's babydolls because Baker's costume was very different from most of those made today -- and in fact, such indiscriminate use of the term "babydoll nightie" causes much confusion in lingerie in general.

Baker's Baby Doll wore rather ill-fitting nightgowns: the bodice rather chaste, no waistline of any kind, the hem barely hit the thigh, all designed to look like a toddler's or child's dress. The idea was the juxtaposition of the adult female form with childlike attire; much like women's menswear looks, the curves of maturity are amply evident.

This childlike essence no doubt influenced a lot of the mod 60s styles, from sack dresses to miniskirts; but this little girl look still confounds many...

As Jaime Morris-Pisani wrote:

The Infanta was a design of lingerie made by Vanity Fair. Advertised as, "fragile as a baby princess, all sweetness and lace with satin ribbons and frosty embroidery. Available in Sunsation Yellow or Dawn Pink, and also all-White and Heaven Blue ribbons."

It makes me a little ill to think that the concept of a baby princess would appeal to a grown adult in search of undergarments, but it was the 60s - I get it.

And then these nighties blossomed more into the dreamy babydolls we vintage lingerie lovers think of when we hear "babydoll" -- the gracefulness of seeing a woman's silhouette under filmy clouds of nylon chiffon.

This is still quite different from the short nighties and negligees many call babydolls. Even the vintage nighties that take the "clouds" of layers of sheer chiffon and marry them to empire waists, like this Olga (from DixieDallas), are not true babydoll nighties; they are just short nightgowns -- nighties, shortie nighties.

The original babydolls did not have empire waistlines -- nor any waist lines at all. Babydoll nighties, vintage or contemporary, are not chemises; absence of a waistline and short length alone does not make a babydoll nightgown.  Other than being short nightgowns, these so-called babydolls have little in common with real babydoll nighties.  Yes, you and even I must often refer to things other short nightgowns as "babydolls" in order to find them online or even in stories; vintage or modern. But really, the difference is obvious.

Babydoll nighties have:

* No waistline
* Voluminous bodies, or at least skirting that does not cling to or define the female form
* Little girl frills, such as bib fronts, ribbons, lace, ruffles, little flower appliques...
* Typically, there are no spaghetti straps (those are for big girls!)

Image credits not already given above: Brunette in Black Negligee in Pink Bed pinup by Arthur Saron Sarnoff; vintage white chiffon with baby blue embroidery babydoll from sweet*cherry*pop; vintage red nylon babydoll with pleated bib front and little flowers via The Magnolia Collection.

Full-Cut Panties With Three Rows Satin & Chiffon Ruffles!

Secrets In Lace does it again with another full-cut vintage-style panty -- this time in chiffon with ruffles around the leg openings! The Ruffle Brief comes in pink and mocha and has three rows of alternating Satin and Chiffon ruffles.

Fire Engine Red Vintage Nylon Nightgown

Fire engine red is the perfect color for a siren to wear *wink* And when it's such a lovely long vintage nylon nightgown, with double chiffon straps and red lace accents, no one will want to put the fire out!

I Don't Want To Start Any Rumors, But...

Is it just a coincidence that A Slip Of A Girl goes dotty, changing the look of this lingerie blog to polka dots, and then Bare Necessities announces "Dots" as the big trend in their Fall Trend Report? Sure, I made the change in February, but that just gave the designers time to revamp their lines. *wink*

How about those Wolford Bonny Dots Tights, hmm? Like wearing a bit of this blog out and about!

Vintage Periwinkle Goddess Style Nightgown

This vintage goddess nightgown by Avian has two layers of yummy nylon. The wide lace waist "stops" in the back, creating a great Grecian goddess fall.

This Week's OMG Vintage Nightgown

It's a pity that this lovely vintage nightgown has no label; that makes id near impossible to even search for another... But the effort would be worth it because this sweet romantic vintage nightgown skimps on none of the details we vintage lingerie lovers seek. Dual layers of vintage chiffon nylon -- sheer white over a light blue -- combine to delicately, modestly, blur the sheer lace bodice and soften the color while delighting the wearer. Ruffled lace trim and a blue satin ribbon tie adorn the very fitted waist, accenting the bust while allowing the layers of fluffy chiffon to remain a cloud around your bottom and legs -- keeping this nightgown from being too busy.  Incredibly sweet and yet so sexy.

Lingerie Steals, Deals & Squeals!

Blush Lingerie's latest offering, The Private Affair collection, has a September delivery, so it should be in stores now! That's what's shown here -- look at those modern full brief panties, folks, and I dare you to tell me that pinstripes are masculine!

I know many of you have been enjoying taking my Ultimate Panty Survey. OK, some of you find it a bit long... But you know it's to benefit us all when the results are served up to the lingerie manufacturing industry, right? Right. It's our bottom lines that will help the corporate ones, and we'll all win! Anyway, author and bra fit coach Ali Cudby has a similar agenda with bras. Please, ladies, take her bra survey! (PS I'll be dishing with Ali here at A Slip Of A Girl soon!)

Did you know you can subscribe to Frederick's of Hollywood's catalogs for just $5 -- and get a $10 certificate to spend on your purchase?! Yippie! (PS Lots of Frederick's lingerie & history coming soon!)

What's better than a discount? Free, of course! Just 'Like' Fred & Ginger Lingerie -- AND comment on your favorite photo in the AW11 Ballet collection -- and you're entered to win £200 worth of gorgeous Fred & Ginger Lingerie! Once they reach over 500 FaceBook likes they will announce the randomly selected lucky winner. (PS Stay tuned here at A Slip Of A Girl for more news on this sexy luxury lingerie brand!)

(Look at all those post scripts! I'm such a tease *wink*)

Speaking of free...& me...

I've got a contest at my other blog... Free jewelry, anyone? *wicked grin*

An Exclusive Interview With Tracey Montford, Designer & Founder of Cake Lingerie

Pregnancy is viewed as a temporary part of a woman's life -- though, as any pregnant woman will tell you -- it feels like FOREVER! On the business side, we are viewed as a captive audience, a forced consumer because pregnant women must buy new clothes at this time. We women feel like we are held hostage!

This was Tracey Montford's own story -- and the inspiration for the new mom to enter and graduate from fashion school and then start her own label, Cake Lingerie, a beautiful line of maternity lingerie and nursing bras which was given the Maternity Brand of the Year award at the UK Lingerie Awards earlier this month!

 Beauty is our desire, but is it really possible? I talked with designer and Cake Lingerie founder Tracey Montford about dreaming and achieving the impossible pregnancy and nursing dreams...

In the design and construction process, how do you combine dreams of sexy and desires of sensuality with the demands of support, to create quality lingerie pieces that address these body image issues?

At Cake Lingerie it is our primary focus to produce working garments with great support. It was my dream to be able to produce beautiful, fashionable and quality garments that provide this function. Over the course of the past 3 years we have worked very hard to incorporate new technology into our garments to insure we provide a great fit. An example of this is our MyBust™ Engineering, introduced this year into our designs which personalizes fit to each wearer. It understands every bust size has unique needs and coverage in order to have the most flattering, supportive and comfortable look and feel; ‘plunge’ for smaller cups (B-D) and balcony for larger cups (E+).

There's a difference between "dreaming of the perfect maternity lingerie" and the realities of making it. Were any of the ideas you had about designing maternity lingerie forced to change once you went to fashion school?

My initial ideas have had to be altered slightly due to fulfilling the function of the garments. Ie. The fabrics and laces used need to be durable and affordable. It was also important to me to keep the centre front of the garments low, for a stylish and attractive look for the fashionable mother. This has had to be higher than first anticipated due to support and coverage of the changing breast, although we have managed to achieve a lower profile than our competitors, which is one point which makes our designs stand out.

How difficult was it to find a manufacturer? What were your primary concerns?

I originally came up with the idea for Cake Lingerie in 2005, however it took us 3 years to get our products into the market. This was primarily because of manufactures. We only work with manufactures who produce high quality garments that meet our expectations.

As we continue to produce new product lines we are searching for new manufactures of high standards. We never compromise the quality of the end product as this is what adds extra value to our styles – the workmanship and final finishes on our products. This (finding manufactures) is an ongoing exercise and one that always takes time.

Nursing bras carry a heavier load -- not just in the physical sense of wear, but in terms of washing too. How does this affect fabric selection and construction?

We work only with high quality fabrics, which are all eco tech and environment friendly.

Being pregnant and having a baby makes many women feel as if they have less time for handwashing their own dainties. We know handwashing our lingerie, especially our bras, makes for the best care of the garments; but at the end of an already long day... As a mom and a designer, what are your thoughts on this?

We do recommend that women hand wash our garments in cold water to prolong its life. However we are realistic and realise that women may not have a lot of time do this as they’re busy juggling family, work and personal life so an alternative would be to machine wash our garments in a lingerie bag in cold water. If these instructions are followed the garments should last the distance, as well protect delicate trimmings and adornments.

So there you have it -- pregnant and nursing moms can have it all when it comes to lingerie! 

(PS the ultimate gift for a new mom or a mother-to-be would be a diaper bag, a lingerie bag, and some Cake Lingerie!)